1/16/2024 0 Comments Warmer climes hype machine![]() And keep coming back for the fresh, warm comfort it produces each day.The 26th Conference of the Parties to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change, and the third meeting of the parties under the Paris Agreement, is not going to save the world. And I note that while not all these folks know the machine by name, they’ve certainly come to know it by reputation. He’s going full tilt – turning out fresh corn tortillas that will soon be eagerly consumed by the people all around us. Taking another bite, I look over at Taco Man Randy Savage. Just eating and drinking and chatting and laughing. And quietly imagine that I could stay here all afternoon. And then I reach for another taco: fried cauliflower, chipotle hot sauce, guacamole and pico de gallo on a fresh tortilla. And silently applaud Nick and Nat for what they’re doing in this lively, inviting place. And we make every single thing on the menu right here at Taco Farm – except our cheeses and ice cream.’ Nick jumps in: ‘But we know the folks who make them. In fact, everything from our jalapenos to our tomatillos are sourced locally. Nat follows my eyes and tells me: ‘For us, Taco Farm has always been rooted in a very clear mandate: to appeal to everyone, to serve great-tasting food, and to offer a menu that is made fresh in-house from as many local ingredients as possible. A fantastically diverse and embracing ambience, indeed. ‘One of the largest selections in the region,’ Nick notes proudly, before adding: ‘We hold Tequila School at least once every two months, which has become a super popular event for us.’ And families with small kids – all of whom are ambitiously scarfing down their food. A handful of very merry groups of friends – some of whom, I see, are sampling Taco Farm’s impressive range of tequilas. Lots of Uptown professionals and colleagues, to be sure. I lift my eyes from my plate long enough to take in the lunchtime clientele. ‘And nothing goes to waste,’ adds Nat, ‘because we use the day-old tortillas for our house-made corn chips.’ Devilishly good chips that Taco Farm sells both on the eat-in menu and on their own in sealed bags at the front counter, to folks looking for something to take away. ![]() I reach for a Carnitas taco – well spiced and slow braised pork shoulder, pico de gallo and guacamole on a warm corn tortilla – and agree more and even more with each bite. ‘And it makes all the difference in the world – having fresh corn tortillas made in-house every day.’ I couldn’t agree more. ‘We’re one of the only restaurants in the country to have one of these,’ Nat notes of the contrivance that was imported from warmer climes. Positioned in clear view behind the counter at Taco Farm, this marvelous (and imposing) contraption functions as the heart and soul of the operation – pushing out fresh corn tortillas from morning through to close. Or, to most of the restaurant’s staff and patrons, Taco Farm’s fresh tortilla-making machine. ‘Yep,’ Nick remarks, ‘Taco Man Randy Savage has ultimately earned his keep.’ That’s right – Taco Man Randy Savage. Nick Benninger, Nat’s husband and partner – in this enterprise as well as all Fat Sparrow Group restaurants – nods his head. ![]() Or that it would need its own staff person to operate.’ She reaches across the table, grabs a tortilla, and loads it with the melted cheeses and chorizo, before adding: ‘And yet I think we’d do it all over again.’ Nat continues: ‘We had no idea how much it would cost to ship it here. I carefully spread the gooey deliciousness onto a warm corn tortilla, then gobble it down. I chuckle at her candidness before sinking my fork back into the Queso Fundido – a hot skillet of melted cheeses and chorizo. ‘Looking back now, I can say with conviction that we absolutely did not think things through,’ Taco Farm’s Natalie (‘Nat’) Benninger remarks with a nervous laugh.
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